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Hello, everyone:

When you walk into Chez Sophie, there is a sign on the front desk. It's the same sign that was taped to the front door of our previous location in the diner in Malta and it has been just as hard to enforce here as it was there.

It says: "We do not require a jacket or a tie. Out of consideration for your fellow diners, we do ask that all hats be removed and all ringing devices be set to silent mode before entering the dining room."


It would be nice to require a jacket and tie, but in this more casual era, it's nearly impossible. This is a tourist town, and many people come to our restaurant after recreating. Only a small percentage of men wear coats and ties to the office anymore, and a sizeable portion of the population doesn't even own a tie. And Cheryl has always had a problem with the fact that a jacket-and-tie policy affects only men. But you need to indicate before someone enters a place such as Chez Sophie that standards are being upheld.

And hence our policy. It's clear and unisex and non-discriminatory, and asks only that people abide by simple rules that can be adhered to without advance planning, and that if flouted, would affect the enjoyment of other diners. Still, people interpret the rules loosely. They'll turn their ringers off, then stand in the middle of the dining room near the courtyard doors (where cellphone reception is stronger) and chat on their phones, rather than going out to the hotel lobby to make their calls. Women assume that the hat policy applies only to men. If you tell them otherwise, they have terrible fits about being asked to display "hathead." We are also, as a family, trying to figure out what to do about people wearing hats at the bar, which could be considered separate from the "dining room" if you employ a little creative sophistry. Although everyone should take their hat off as soon as they enter our portals, the bar guests frequently don't even remove their overcoats while they are tossing back a quick cocktail. Although our hosts greet everyone who walks in the door, the quickie bar guests often barge past them, tossing "I'm just going to the bar," over their shoulders before they can be properly disrobed and indoctrinated. (It's a lot harder to get past a Parker with a hat on, but we're often on the dining room floor or the kitchen rather than standing in the doorway.)

The "tipping" or removal of a hat is said to have originated from the same place as the military salute. Knights would lift the visor (face guard) on their helm, showing their face as a sign of respect and their empty hand as an indication they meant no harm. This tradition evolved into the modern military salute. Similarly, the removal of a helm (helmet) or other headgear indoors and as a sign of respect or reverence is said to have originated before the Dark Ages. This tradition was carried on throughout the centuries by men of arms (soldiers) and nobility, as well as their staff, servants and slaves and it became particularly ingrained in Western culture during the Victorian era. It is considered a sign of contempt or disrespect to keep a hat on indoors, particularly in a church, home, courtroom or restaurant.


Women are given more leeway, and are allowed to keep their hats on in church and even while the Star-Spangled Banner is playing. It made the international news this year when an 82-year-old granny was asked to remove her hat in an English pub so that the security cameras could see everyone's face clearly. We choose to remove gender from the equation, because, well darn it, this is a privately owned restaurant and we can make up the rules as we go along. If you think a no-hat policy is hopelessly old-fashioned, peruse this email that Cheryl received from a customer Saturday (and bear in mind that these patrons are young and rather forward thinking, not dismissable as old-fogeys):

"We just have to let you know how delightful our meal and overall experience was this past Thurs. evening when we happily found ourselves in town at dinner time.  The lamb chop Pink Plate was perfection from soup to dessert. Perfect portions as well.  We hate to be served huge amounts of ho hum food. Quality not quantity would be better for us all.  It was lucky that Cole and Léo happened to be there as well.  Good to see the place pretty full on a week night.  It seems being in the hotel has its positives and negatives judging from your vignettes and our observations of the clientele.  At least there were no cell phones ringing when we were there, but, your tasteful sign at reception notwithstanding, it really is disappointing to walk into your classy joint to be confronted with classless idiots wearing cowboy hats and baseball caps.  Obviously, there is only so much you can do about this without going out of business. Our observations of human nature lead us to believe that the same crass narcissism that fuels this kind of behavior causes its proponents to become enraged and even more unpleasant if they happen to be politely informed of their trespasses.  Let us pray that this whole juvenile phase of our society runs its course during our lifetimes (maybe once the current adminstration is out of office?) and that we can once again feel and behave like civilized and respectful citizens in public settings.  No one can criticize you for not doing your part to carry on the tradition.  Keep being there and we will come." 

A few weeks ago the hat issue came up in a tortuously bad way. Cheryl walked into the dining room and saw two wonderful regular customers seated at a table for four and went down to greet them. She trotted off to the nursery to get baby Léo to show her off to them, and when she came back she found their guest of honor had returned from the men's room still wearing his baseball cap. Suffice it to say, the man is an international celebrity, and someone who has dined with us on his own enough times at Chez Sophie in the old diner location that Cheryl greeted him as a returning friend. It turns out our regulars had just closed a real estate deal with him and had brought him and his wife out to Chez Sophie to celebrate. They had all been doing physical labor all day and were tired, and hungry and a little dirty, and were looking forward to a great meal.

The problem was the hat. It's our rule. It doesn't matter who you are. Cheryl managed this summer to gracefully extract trademark hats from two famous writers without any hard feelings, but she knew in this case, that because the customer was tired and a little greasy, he wouldn't take kindly to being decapitated. It would have helped if the hostess had pointed out the sign on the front desk outlining the hat policy before the customer entered the dining room, but she was so star-struck that she was rendered speechless. It also didn't help that several men had just wandered into the bar area with their chapeaus intact, necessitating a multi-pronged approach for enforcement.


Cheryl continued to circle the table, trying to make sure the customers in question encountered no hesitation about any other special requests, because she knew that she was going to try to get that hat without undue unpleasantness. She was off in the kitchen still holding the baby, figuratively chewing her nails over the problem and trying to make sure the guest got no arguments because he'd ordered something that wasn't on our regular dinner menu. When she reentered the dining room, the celebrity's hosts were waiting by the kitchen door with shocked looks on their faces.

"We've been thrown out!" they said with anguish.

Apparently while Cheryl was dithering, her father-in-law, Joseph, had come in, seen the hat and noticed that the man was shrugging out of his jacket. He seized the moment to offer to hang the jacket and the hat in our coat closet. The man declined politely. Joseph insisted on at least hanging the hat. The man suggested that he would stay if he could keep his hat on, but would leave if he was forced to remove it. Standing his ground, Joseph said that might be the best thing.


By the time Cheryl came back out of the kitchen, still clutching little Léo, the hatted man had marched out of the restaurant, leaving his wife an hosts behind. Cheryl and Léo circled the hotel with the wife, trying to find the pedestrian celebrity, while the hosts retrieved their car so they could drive the abandoned wife home. Our hatted guest had politely turned off his cellphone before being seated, so his wife couldn't reach him to find out where he'd gone. The wife was angry, her hosts were humiliated, Cheryl was mortified that things had gone so badly so fast, and Joseph felt really bad about causing a scene. But to tell the truth, Cheryl was a little impressed with Joseph's lack of hesitation about enforcing our 37-year-old hat rule, the consequences be damned. If she hadn't been so timid in the first place, the whole unpleasantness might have been avoided. At the very least, the hatted diner would have walked out before being served, which is a little less embarrassing than doing it while you have cocktails on the table.

Cheryl has been trying to contact the real estate agents to send bottles of Champagne to them and to their client, but they haven't returned her calls. She doesn't want to apologize for having a dress code, but wants to express sincere regret over the graceless way in which it was enforced. Again, if she hadn't been afraid of confrontation, the confrontation would have been a lot smaller and smoother.

On a brighter note, we're planning a great Sunday Jazz Brunch this week. Our new format starts with a breakfast menu, ranging from a Continental assortment of muffins, pastries, fruit, yogurt, quiche etcetera for $9 and travels through a whole range of breakfast entrees including omelettes ($9 to $11); pancakes du jour ($9); The All in One which includes 2 eggs any style, two eggs, homefries, toast and sausage or bacon; ($10) waffles with sweet cream butter and local maple syrup; ($10) and Irish steel-cut oatmeal ($8). This menu is served from 7 a.m. to 2 p.m. Starting at 10 a.m. each Sunday morning, a series of specials will be added to the menu. This weekend they will be crawfish etouffé ($16); quarter roasted chicken with wild rice ($18); prosciutto and leek quiche served with a side salad ($11); three biscuits with pork gravy ($9); and French toast served with warm mixed berry compote ($11).

Jazz pianist Cole Broderick will play the baby grand piano from 10:30 a.m. to 2 p.m. with no cover charge. The bar opens for Champagne mimosas, Bloody Marys and other treats at the stroke of noon.

The Pink Plate Special this week will be moules et frites, a classic bistro dish that seems to remind everyone of some wonderful experience they had in France or Belgium or Quebec. We steam a generous portion of mussels in Belgian beer, herbs and butter and serve them with hand-cut potatoes fried crisply. The frites can be dipped in our homemade mayonnaise flavored with garlic.

The Pink Plate is a weekly prix fixe special we offer on MONDAY, TUESDAY, WEDNESDAY AND THURSDAY. For $30 per person, you get your choice of soup or salad, the featured entree, two selections from our cheese board or one of a couple of featured desserts, plus coffee, tea or espresso.
Below is a list of upcoming events at Chez Sophie, which will be elaborated upon as further details are available. For those of you who have been asking about New Year's Eve, see below for prices and times. 

Live Piano Jazz

Jazz pianist Cole Broderick plays the baby grand Tuesday through Friday night, and during Sunday brunch from 10:30 a.m. to 2 p.m. (barring special events that preclude live music.)
Cost: No cover charge

Tango Wednesdays

The members of Tango Fusion, a local tango club, gather in our lounge after their Wednesday night class ends at 8:30 for cocktails, snacks and dancing. The public is welcome to come hang out at the bar, join in and pick up a few dance pointers from instructors Diane Lachtrupp and Johnny Martinez. For more information about local classes by Diane and Johnny, see the Saratoga Savoy website at http://www.saratogasavoy.com/files/instructors.html
Cost: No cover charge

Tasting menus

Chef's Choice seven-course tasting menu available each night.  The menus are designed based on the best and most creative dishes Chef Paul K. Parker is serving each evening. We will pair wines for you or you can order from our extensive wine list.
Cost: $75 per person, plus tax and tip. Everyone at the table must partake in the tasting menu

If you're feeling less impromptu, you can call ahead to arrange a special tasting menu with the number of courses and wine pairings designed to suit your capacity, dietary restrictions and budget. Tasting menus arranged in advance will be printed on commemorative vellum scrolls personalized with the name of the host or the reason for the event. 
Cost: $50 to $200, depending on the number of courses and the wines selected; available for two to 75 guests
Call Cheryl to make arrangements 518.583.3538

Tuesday, October 31

Halloween Party for Kids
5 p.m. until it ends
We'll use our upstairs private dining room for an all-ages costume party with games, favors, magic tricks, food and prizes. Parents are welcome to join in the party, or have dinner in the downstairs dining room or at the bar while the kids play.
Cost: $5 per child
Reservations appreciated

Warm Lake Wine Dinner

November 7 and 8, 6:30 p.,m. each night
These two dinners are limited to 20 people each night around a single table. We will feature the wines of Warm Lake, a New York State winery on the Niagara Escarpment near Lake Ontario.  The winemaking, done on a small scale, employs Old World techniques; the pinot noir fruit is triaged, punched down manually and vinified in French oak barrels. The grapes from four different sections of the vineyard are vinified separately, than blended by vintner Michael Von Heckler to make two dinner wines, Warm Lake Estate and Mountain Road. http://www.warmlakeestate.com

Our wine dinners will feature a tasting of each of the four component wines and the Estate wine. Then we'll sit down to a warming soup as a palate cleanser and enjoy the Mountain Road with coq au vin.  We'll finish with Warm Lake's dessert pinot noir with cheeses and desserts. http://www.warmlakeestate.com
Cost:  $80 per person, plus tax and gratuity

Thanksgiving Dinner

Thursday, November 23
Special prix fixe wine dinner
Limited to 20 people around a communal table, we will be serving up a five-course heritage breed turkey tasting menu with four spectacular wines. This is a particularly good option for people who love to dine well and in a festive setting, but won't be with their families on our national day of gratitude. 
It starts at at 6:30 p.m. 
Cost: $100 per person, plus tax and gratuity
Hotel rooms at The Saratoga available at a discount for Chez Sophie diners, availability limited

Also, turkey dinner will be offered in our main dining room, in addition to our regular menu from 5 p.m. to 10 p.m. It will include free-range, all-natural local roast turkey and trimmings and pie for dessert for $35 per person, or your guests may order from our regular menu. Turkey dinner for children under 12 is $15. A few large tables still available for family groups.
Call for reservations 518.583.3538

New Year's Eve at Chez Sophie, 2006
Sunday, December 31, 2006
Our most elegant party of the year

Early seating prix fixe special
Tables available at 5, 5:30, 6 and 6:30 p.m.
Prix fixe five-course menu including options for three of the courses, with a glass of Champagne included
Cost: $75 per person, plus tax and gratuity

New Year's Eve all night party
Tables available at 8, 8:30, 9 and 9:30 p.m.
Prix-fixe eight-course menu, including options for three of the courses, midnight Champagne toast included
Jazz Pianist Cole Broderick to play starting at 8 p.m.
Cost: $125 per person, plus tax and gratuity

Special prix fixe wine menu available as well as our full wine list and bar
Double rooms at The Saratoga available for $199 per night. 
Reservations required with credit card confirmation 
518.583.3538


Nico and Léo: Nico woke up in one of those huggy, grabby moods that could be charming if you had plenty of time to sit around hugging. Unfortunately, Mom was trying to catch up on some party planning by telephone and email, Dad was off to the restaurant kitchen and Léo is just too small at eight months old to withstand the ministrations of her three and a half-year-old brother.
"Nico! Get off your sister. Don't make me tell you a third time!" his mom growled.
Nico continued to cling to his sister's legs as she cheerfully struggled to escape, his little shoulders tensed for the moment when Mom would pounce on him from behind and pull him off his sister. "I love you Léo," he said preemptively. "You're my best friend."
"She is your best friend," Mom agreed tiredly. "Just don't crush her."

We hope to see you soon,

 

The Parker family
at chez sophie
518-583-3538

Chez Sophie was founded in 1969 by sculptor Joseph Parker and his French-born wife, the late Sophie. The business moved to a vintage stainless steel diner in Malta Ridge, New York, in 1995. It is owned today by Sophie and Joseph's son, Paul Parker, and his wife, Cheryl Clark. In June of 2006, they moved the restaurant into their current location in The Saratoga Hotel on Broadway..

If at any time you would like to be removed from our weekly email list (or receive less frequent postings about wine dinners or special events) please let us know by return email. We hope you enjoy our news.

P.S. Each month we draw a name at random from our database of customers and send them a $50 gift certificate to Chez Sophie. If you would like to be added to this promotions database, which is owned by Chez Sophie, please send us an email with your name, address, telephone number, birthday and anniversary. People on the list will also receive a gift certificate by mail or email for a free glass of champagne or dessert on their birthdays or anniversaries. (You only need to enter once to be eligible every month.)

 

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CHEZ SOPHIE AT THE SARATOGA   534 BROADWAY SARATOGA SPRINGS, NY 12866   518.583.3538  allofus@chezsophie.com