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Hello everyone!
If you get married on February 29, do you only get to celebrate your anniversary every four years? And does it take 28 years for the seven-year itch to set in?
These are the kind of questions Cheryl is asking herself as she prepares for two small wedding receptions on Friday (a date which exists only on leap years) and Saturday. The first party is only 13 people looking for a very special meal after their very special ceremony. The second is a group of fifty who will occupy the lower dining room Saturday night, leaving the upper level free for regular dinner service. Outside the wedding party, we have a couple celebrating a birthday with a 10-course tasting menu with wine pairings and another couple who has asked to have a romantic table set for them in front of the fireplace, only this time on the bar side of the fireplace. (The bride and groom have reserved the table on the other side of the fireplace for themselves.)
So we'll be doing a lot of exciting food and sharing in a lot of romance this weekend. We invite you to join us.
Cool food this week
On Friday, Paul and souschef Dan Felder plan to offer roasted pheasant breast with confited tomatoes and a sauce of chorizo, maitake mushrooms and sherry. Maitakes have a strong flavor in the same way that truffles do. The slight spice from the chorizo, the acidity of the tomatoes and the sweetness of the sherry should pull all the earthy wonder from the mushrooms.
The fish on Friday will be white-wine braised grouper with North African spices, such as cardamom, fennel seed, paprika, caraway, allspice grains of paradise, pink peppercorns and fenugreek. The fish will be served with a sautéed mirepoix of carrots, onions and celery with baby fennel. Finished with butter and olives, it will be served over cous cous.
For Sunday at the latest, Paul is expecting a shipment of antelope tri-tips from Broken Arrow Ranch this week, as well as venison sausage and venison bones for stock. The extremely lean tri-tip will be poached in olive oil and served with parsnips and Kilpatrick Farm carrots roasted until the sugars caramelize. On the side will be a mostarda with mustard, confited onions and fresh strawberry purée. (Mostarda is that crazy relish that frequently appears on our cheese platters that people think might involve ginger or a dozen other things with bite, but is actually made with pears, sugar and mustard powder.)
Several species of antelope were introduced to the Texas hill country more than 50 years ago for the enjoyment of game hunters. The exotics, from Japan, India and other Asian countries, require less water and care than domestic cattle and feed on the herbs and brush that grow under the sheltering cliffs and river valleys. They thrived so well that they were enclosed in a 750-acre preserve under the management of Broken Arrow Ranch, which practices selective harvesting to keep a balance between the native species and the exotic imports.
The meat is buttery tender and mildly flavored, and yet is low fat (less than 3 percent.) It has not been treated with antibiotics or hormones and is lower in cholesterol than chicken with a third of the calories of beef.
Tri-tips are the little bits that are left over after you cut the bottom of the sirloin into steaks in the perfect little manufacturing chunks that restaurants order these days. It's a great muscle, from the best part of the beast, but an odd shape, so they tend to sell at very reasonable prices.
Responses to last week's newsletter
Last week's musings on the "organic" label prompted a few interesting responses.
"I certainly don't think organic is The Answer to All Food Issues (for example, I don't think strict application of organic standards is the best way in which to rear livestock). You point out some important nuances about what the organic label does and does not tell a person. However, you might wish to consider that some people on chemotherapy have to be very careful to avoid pesticide exposure, especially in foods that often have high residues. Such folks might request (or even insist upon) organic food to guarantee that they avoid this exposure, perhaps not fully understanding that there are other ways to achieve this end, especially when, as at Chez Sophie, one knows the provenance of one's food...
If you should wish to consider a different point of view, I dropped off a chapter from Bill McKibben’s recent book Deep Economy, and flagged a section that deals with a Dennis Avery assertion (that small and/or organic farming has low productivity). At the end, there are references to studies with data on the issue. This works better for me than assertions."
One reader archly noted that Cheryl, in her sleep-deprived state, had used a word - turpitude - that meant exactly the opposite of what she was trying to say.
"OK. It amuses me to listen to sportscasters refer to the 'coup de gras.' Last night, the Siena announcers described the hometown crowd during a rally as "going catatonic." So when you, in the second full para of the 2.22 newsletter, refer to the concept of "organic" as possibly guaranteeing 'moral turpitude,' I cringe just a bit. But then, I reserve the right, always, to order exactly the wrong wine to go with whatever I'm eating."
Ouch. That what she gets for writing the newsletter at 4 a.m., after all her potential proofreaders and editors have gone to sleep.
Another reader questioned the fate of the customers who prompted the essay, the ones who quizzed our servers because they refused to order anything from our menu that wasn't certified organic.
"My question: did the organicistas leave and go to another restaurant? The end of that story, please."
We think they ordered the duck, because while not certified organic, it did have the name of the farm in the menu description.
Fage Yogurt
We have a group of new customers we've been seeing a lot of, and we want to mention why they all moved to town, because their products are so delicious. We first found out about Fage (PRONOUNCED Fa'-yeh) strained Greek yogurt while visiting Paul's sister Ellen, who'd brought a few containers from New York City to her country house in Chichester. This yogurt is particularly thick and creamy and it comes with a little side container of something you can add to the yogurt, like a fruit compote. The one we ate had honey on the side, and it was so thick that two-year-old Léo couldn't dump the container on the floor and skate in it, which is what she routinely does with Stonyfield Farm and Yoplait yogurt. She can still rub the Fage yogurt in her hair, but that's still less cleanup than 6 ounces on the hardwoods.
A few days after we visited Ellen, Paul told Cheryl about meeting some really nice people from Greece who had moved to the area to build a $27 million yogurt production plant in Johnstown that will be using upstate New York milk. Cheryl recognized the name as the one on Ellen's magic container of yogurt, and the next day she found some of the Fage products in a local supermarket (it was either a Hannaford or the fancy new Price Chopper in Malta. She hasn't been able to find it at either of the Saratoga Price Choppers, which is a shame, because those are the ones she's most likely to stop at on the way home.) Paul's now addicted to the yogurt with the cherries and wants to try all the other flavors as well.
Pink Plate Special
The Pink Plate Special this coming week will be mussels with chorizo, orange zest, chili flake and saffron, cooked in white wine with butter.
The Pink Plate Special is a weekly prix fixe special we offer on Monday, Tuesday, Wednesday and Thursday. The Pink Plate Special is a $32 per person three-course special, including your choice of soup or salad, the featured entree, two selections from our cheese board or one of a couple of featured desserts and coffee, tea or espresso.
Easter Brunch
We've decided to try something different for Easter Brunch than we did last year. We did a sit-down prix fixe menu that went quite well, but we noticed that a disproportionate number of people stood in line at our designer omelette station, probably because they enjoyed the show. So this year, we're doing all of the food service in stations, like a buffet, but a little more like performance art.
So this year, we'll keep that omelette station, because it was extremely popular, and will also be offering a waffle station, a carving station with leg of lamb, prime rib, and baked fresh ham, a raw bar, a salad and vegetable station, and desserts.
Because the food stations will replace some of our upstairs dining area, seating will be limited. Please book ahead, especially for large family parties, and we will be requiring a credit card to confirm the reservations, with a 24-hour no-penalty cancellation grace period. (After that, it's a $10 per head penalty.)
Admission is $35 for adults and $18 for children under 12. We will begin seating at 10:30 a.m. and accept reservations each half hour until 3 p.m. Breakfast will be served from 7 to 9:30 a.m. and dinner seatings will begin at 5:30 p.m. with our normal à la carte dinner menu.
Artist in residence Joseph C. Parker
Joseph, who has been artist-in-residence at Chez Sophie since 1969, is taking orders for castings of the pieces in his exhibit, "Expressions of Love," which features tiny sculptures that he created to be gifts for Sophie over the 52 years of their marriage.
The castings will cost between $300 and $3,000 depending on the piece. The castings will be done to order, so if you want to give one as a gift to your romantic love in the near future, we can create a pretty promise package for you with a photograph of the original to present as a gift for a birthday, anniversary, engagement. Castings for one of the pieces have been completed, and a series of another piece will be finished in the next week. The other pieces will take six to 12 weeks for delivery depending on the complexity of the sculpture.
The brunch menu this Saturday and Sunday will feature white chocolate mascarpone stuffed Belgian waffles with strawberry syrup ($14); crawfish eggs Benedict ($15); ginger-glazed pan-roasted duck breast with soba noodles ($16) and Amaretto French toast with your choice of bacon or sausage ($14). Appetizer specials include a crabcake with lemon caper mayonnaise ($16); a salad of mixed baby greens tossed in a red wine vinaigrette ($7); escargots en cassolette ($11) and soup of the day ($8).
The brunch specials run from 10:30 a.m. to 2 p.m. The complete menu, offered from 7 to 2 p.m., includes a Continental assortment of muffins, pastries, fruit, yogurt, frittata etcetera for $9; omelettes ($10 to $12); pancakes du jour ($10); the All in One, which includes 2 eggs any style, homefries, toast and sausage or bacon ($10); waffles with sweet cream butter and local maple syrup ($10); and Irish steel-cut oatmeal ($8).
Cole in the House
Cole plays the baby grand piano from 10:30 a.m. to 2 p.m. Sunday during brunch and on Tuesday and Friday night (barring special events that preclude live music.) He also comes in on nights he is not normally scheduled, such as Thursdays and Saturday nights, if he feels like it. Cole, who won a Billboard Critic's Choice Award for his 4-CD set of jazz compositions: "Seasons in Saratoga," recently released his seventh CD "Chez Sophie Jazz." This is the first time he's recorded with a vocalist. (The singer is Cheryl Clark, co-owner of Chez Sophie, wife of Chef Paul, mother of the adorable Nico and Léo.) Some of the cuts of the CD can be heard at http://www.chezsophie.com/.
We can also mail-order the CD's for an additional $4 shipping and handling.
Skidmore Graduation
Skidmore graduation weekend has also started to book heavily. We'll be offering an elegant, four-course, $70 per person prix fixe menu, and will be serving the Friday of Skidmore Graduation weekend from 5 p.m. to 10 p.m. by reservation. On the Saturday, we will extend brunch to 3:30 pm. and start serving the prix fixe dinner at 5:30.
Tasting menus
The Chef's Choice seven-course tasting menu is available each night. The menus are designed based on the best and most creative dishes Chef Paul K. Parker is serving each evening. We will pair wines for you at an additional charge or you can order from our extensive wine list.
Cost: $80 to $200 per person for seven or more courses, plus tax and tip. Everyone at the table must partake in the tasting menu.
If you're feeling less impromptu, you can call ahead to arrange a special tasting menu with the number of courses and wine pairings designed to suit your capacity, dietary restrictions and budget.
Tasting menus arranged in advance will be printed on commemorative vellum scrolls personalized with the name of the host or the reason for the event.
Cost: Depends on the number of courses and the wines selected; available for two to 75 guests. Call Cheryl to make arrangements at 518.583.3538
The Pink Plate Special
offered Monday, March 3, Tuesday, March 4, Wednesday, March 5, and Thursday, March 6
$32 per person
includes your choice of soup or salad, a special entree, selected desserts or a cheese course and coffee, tea or espresso.
This week's special entree:
mussels with chorizo, orange zest, chili flake and saffron, cooked in white wine with butter
Notes on Nico and Léo:
Our two-year-old Léo is developing an awareness of interpersonal relationships very early thanks to input from her 5-year-old brother, who is prone to small bouts of social angst. We were at an indoor play area Monday, and Léo fearlessly made very quick friends with a 5-year-old girl, persuading her to share her pastry and her doll. Nico was a little flummoxed, since at that moment, the girl was the only one in the play area close to his age, and he couldn't quite figure out how to horn in on Léo's action. Léo apparently sensed that Nico was feeling left out, and her solution was to walk over to her Mommy and announce: "You a kid. Come play!" and lead her mother over to where Nico was sitting on a plastic mushroom looking a little forlorn.
Later, when the five-year-old girl was putting on her coat, Léo ran up to her, gave her a hug and declared: "You friend."
The friend concept came up again the next day when Léo ran to her Mom and informed her: "Nico mad at me. He not my friend anymore." Mom quickly went to interrogate Nico about the Léo-esque trangression that might have led to his disenchantment, but he professed complete ignorance. A little too theatrically, and clearly for parental benefit, he trilled: "Oh Léo, you're my BEST friend."
Which didn't stop him a few hours later from biting his sister's arm while she napped, causing her to awake abruptly and not in the best of humors. After the obligatory time-out, Nico swore that he wasn't mad at his sister for anything, and in fact loved her, and couldn't explain why he bit her. Cheryl and Paul discussed and decided that maybe he got so hungry for her companionship that he couldn't wait for her to wake up naturally. She does look particularly delicious when she sleeps.
The Parker family
at Chez Sophie
518.583.3538
Chez
Sophie was founded in 1969 by sculptor Joseph Parker and his French-born
wife, the late Sophie. The business moved to a vintage stainless
steel diner in Malta Ridge, New York, in 1995. It is owned today
by Sophie and Joseph's son, Paul Parker, and his wife, Cheryl
Clark. In June of 2006, they moved the restaurant into their current
location in The Saratoga Hotel on Broadway..
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P.S.
Each month we draw a name at random from our database of customers
and send them a $50 gift certificate to Chez Sophie. If you would
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Chez Sophie, please send us an email with your name, address,
telephone number, birthday and anniversary. People on the list
will also receive a gift certificate by mail or email for a free
glass of champagne or dessert on their birthdays or anniversaries.
(You only need to enter once to be eligible every month.)
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