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Hello, everyone.

We had a customer the other night who sent back a half rack of lamb.
Not because it was overcooked or undercooked. Not because it didn't taste good. He never tasted it. He sent it back because it was smaller than his friend's veal chop. Nevermind that the menu clearly stated that it was a "half rack of New Zealand lamb" which perforce, makes it four bones and about seven ounces of meat. Nevermind that it was $9 less than the veal chop, which comes in at about 12 ounces (and veal costs less per pound than lamb, anyway.)

So, as the summer season starts, we questioned our decision to offer lamb as a half rack, rather than a full 8-bone rack. We cut the size of the lamb dish last year because we noticed that many people couldn't finish a full rack of lamb. Because the cost of meat is so high right now, we wanted to keep our menu prices reasonable. But, Cheryl still went to other customers who were eating lamb that night and asked if they thought a half rack of lamb was too small. Several people said, no, a half rack was perfect for them, because it allowed them to have an appetizer, a salad, the lamb they thoroughly enjoyed and dessert without feeling ill afterwards. But enough people hungered for more meat that we decided to offer two options, a full rack or a half rack, making it clear that the former is twice as much meat as the latter. Strangely enough, we are now selling more full racks than half racks.

Then, Wednesday, Paul told Cheryl: "I ordered some prime beef rib chops."
"Yeah?" she said.
"They're 22-ounces. They're gorgeous. We're going to have to charge $70 for it." He looked at her astonished countenance and added: "It's kind of a summer thing."
Looking at her still astonished countenance, he said: "I thought it would be nice to have a big piece of meat for people who were in the mood for a big piece of meat. I guarantee we'll sell them. Look, I'll serve it on a platter, and if two people want to share it, they can with no sharing charge. If they want, we'll slice it to make it easier."

Meanwhile, Paul summer-ized the lamb presentation, both on the full and half racks. He'll be serving it with a purée of flageolets, a summer salad of tomatoes, mâche and other things and a mint aigre doux. Aigre doux is the French word for a sauce that balances sweet and sour. Cheryl asked Paul what was in it and he shrugged and said:
"It's a gastrique. I just like the word aigre doux. It sounds better."

To further translate this somewhat confusing attempt to get the artist to explain himself, a gastrique is a thick sauce produced by a reduction of vinegar or wine, sugar, and usually fruit. It's a sweet and sour deal. Kind of like an aigre doux.

Paul got in a gorgeous ahi tuna Thursday. Sous-Chef Mark Graham is coating it with togarashi and searing it lightly, trying to take a good thing and prepare it as simply as possible.
"Paul presented me with this fish today, and I nearly burst into tears," Mark said. "It's been so long since I had my hands on good ahi."
"You guys are so married," scoffed John Adams, one of the young men working his way up in Paul's kitchen.

Ahi tuna is a type of tuna also known as "big-eye" or "yellow-fin,"
not to be confused with bluefin or yellowtail, the latter of which isn't even a tuna. These tuna reach about 300 pounds in weight. They feature a pale pink flesh that is relatively mild. Togarashi is a Japanese seven-spice mix of ginger, chili pepper, orange peel, black and white sesame seeds, seaweed and Japanese pepper. A little of it also sneaked into the "sauce Japonais" on a halibut preparation Thursday night.

"We're basically trying to get it into everything we can because it is delicious," joked Dan Felder, as he trimmed a bit of fat off a steak.

Cheryl referred to John Adams recently as a sergeant in Paul's kitchen, but she wondered what his title really is and for that matter, what is Dan Felder? Chez Sophie is a French kitchen, but it's never been a particularly military environment. People in Chez Sophie's kitchen have assignments, but they tend to work with all types of foods in a pinch. That's because neither Sophie nor Paul went to either culinary school or military academy, and the way they cook tends to flow from the way a home cook prepares a meal. In a formal kitchen, the saucier, or the guy who makes sauce, would be the third ranking person, but at Chez Sophie, Executive Chef Paul makes the sauces because he's especially good at it. Souschef Mark Graham works on vegetable creations and plate presentation even though those are not a particularly souschef-y things to do, because he does it very well.

Cheryl asked Mark, who was standing closest at the time, to define John, and he said: "He's a front-line soldier."
"But what is his role technically?" Cheryl asked, to which Mark
responded: "Victim, usually."
Moving on, she asked Paul. "Chef cuisinier." O.K. That works.
It turns out that Dan is also a chef cuisinier, but in a very different role in Paul's kitchen. John primarily works on non- proteins and Dan primarily works on proteins. So in a classic French kitchen, John would be an entremetier (vegetable cook) and Dan would be a grillardin (grill guy) and rotisseur (roasting guy) and poissonier (fish cook). But sometimes Dan and John tread into the land of potager (soup chef), butcher commis (general slave) and friturier (fry cook). They seldom do the jobs of patissier (pastry
maker) or boulanger (bread baker) or confiseur (candy maker) because that's the province of garde manger, Brian Netzel.

Only the French would have so many words for what Americans would simply describe as chef or cook. Forgive us for this, but Paul translates this into American thusly: "Dan is MY bitch, John is MARK'S bitch and Brian - well, Brian is just a bitch."

Paul will be doing elk à la Grecque this weekend, marinated in olive and lemon juice with rosemary, thyme, garlic, juniper berries and pepper. Then he's grilling it, squeezing a little lemon juice on it and sprinkling it with freshly chopped parsley. It's light, lean, summery and good.

We'll also be serving confited rabbit legs from Wanabea Farm as a tribute to Madeleine Kamman. Kamman is famous for many things, particular her thousand page epic "The Making of a Cook: The Art, Techniques, and Science of Good Cooking (Morrow, $40). Kamman first published this book in 1971 and rewrote it in 1997. She explains the rewrite with the charming admission: ''I realized that the first edition contained quite a few imperfections, and that, like all young cooks with a passion, I had given in to the 'passion' first and then only to reasoning. I simply had written it too soon, when I still thought I knew so much.''

The rabbit legs we will submit to the Kamman treatment are the by- product of several dishes we are using Wanabea's excellent rabbit for, a stuffed rabbit saddle and a loin roulade. Garde manger Brian Netzel also has an idea for a rabbit pie he wants us to try.

You can now order a Chez Sophie picnic box lunch to pick up in the morning and take with you wherever you plan to spend the day. There are three options: chilled filet mignon with a variety of condiments; roasted Cornish hen and a vegetarian 'grand plateau des sans visages'
which will be an array of salads with a balance of proteins, vegetables and starches. Each of the dishes will be served with two sides, something with fresh, seasonal vegetables and something like fingerling potatoes dressed in olive oil and sea salt. You can order the boxes by telephone the night before by calling 518.583.3538 and pick them up any time after 8 a.m. The prices will range from $17 to
$21 per entree.

Our Sunday Jazz brunch this week with pianist Cole Broderick will feature crabmeat crèpes with Mornay sauce ($15); teriyaki glazed salmon with sesame noodle salad (16); Kobe-style beef Bolognese over torchio pasta ($15); and cinnamon French toast served with an applewood smoked pork chop topped with Jack Daniels-braised apples ($16). Appetizer specials include Rhode Island Littleneck clams steamed with white wine and herbs ($12); a salad of Sunset Hill Farm greens tossed in a red wine vinaigrette ($7); crabcake with caper mayonnaise ($14) and soup of the day ($8).

The brunch specials run from 10:30 a.m. to 2 p.m. The complete menu,
offered from 7 to 2 p.m., includes a Continental assortment of
muffins, pastries, fruit, yogurt, frittata etcetera for $9;
omelettes ($10 to $12); pancakes du jour ($10); the All in One, which includes 2 eggs any style, homefries, toast and sausage or bacon ($10); waffles with sweet cream butter and local maple syrup ($10); and Irish steel- cut oatmeal ($8).
Jazz pianist Cole Broderick plays from 10:30 a.m. to 2 p.m.

Metroland, the alternative weekly newspaper in Albany, voted Chez Sophie Best French Restaurant this week in its "2007 Capital Region Best of..." edition. They said: "Owners Paul Parker (who is also the
chef) and Cheryl Clark moved the restaurant to the Saratoga Hotel last year and now enjoy all the elegance of ambiance that their superior cuisine warrants. Following in his mother Sophie’s footsteps, Paul pushes traditional French techniques and recipes into unexpected, exciting directions. The French have always been culinary trailblazers, so it’s not surprising that this is a restaurant like no other, and absolutely first-rate."

Our trailblazing souschef, Mark Graham, said he also found it "tender and humorous" that he was mentioned as the souschef of Park 54 in Clifton Park, which he left with warm, fond wishes for Chef Mike Pietrocola. Congratulations to Park 54, which was noted for Best Outdoor Dining, and to our Saratoga colleagues, Beekman Street Bistro (Best Continental); and Hattie's (Best Southern); Ravenous (Best Crèpes); Mrs. London's (Best Desserts); Uncommon Grounds (Best Coffeehouse Urban); Chameleon on the Lake (Best International); Karavalli (Best Indian); and The Adelphi (Best Outdoor Drinking.).
Also, congratulations to former Saratoga chef and our good friend Larry Schepici, who worked with us when we did the Saratoga 4x4 events. His Tosca Grille in Troy was named Best New Restaurant.

Live Piano Jazz
Jazz pianist Cole Broderick plays the baby grand Tuesday and Friday night, and during Sunday brunch from 10:30 a.m. to 2 p.m.
(barring special events that preclude live music.)
Cost: No cover charge

Tasting menus
Chef's Choice seven-course tasting menu available each night. The
menus are designed based on the best and most creative dishes Chef Paul K. Parker is serving each evening. We will pair wines for you at an additional charge or you can order from our extensive wine list.
Cost: $75 per person for seven courses, plus tax and tip. Everyone at the table must partake in the tasting menu.
If you're feeling less impromptu, you can call ahead to arrange a
special tasting menu with the number of courses and wine pairings
designed to suit your capacity, dietary restrictions and budget.
Tasting menus arranged in advance will be printed on commemorative
vellum scrolls personalized with the name of the host or the reason
for the event.
Cost: $50 to $200, depending on the number of courses and the wines
selected; available for two to 75 guests. Call Cheryl to make arrangements at 518.583.3538

The Pink Plate Special is on summer vacation.

Notes on Nico and Léo:

It's true what they say about second children becoming bathroom- trained faster than firstborn. Nico was nearly four before he got reliable at it. Léo, who is only 18 months old, is desperate to use the potty the way her brother does. She's still a bit confused and alarmed by what happens when she does it EXACTLY the way her brother does, since it's difficult for a little girl to stand up and take aim like a little boy. Even with assistance to achieve a more conventional seating arrangement, her timing has been a little off during her fledgling weeks. She tends to take off her diaper and try to use the potty after she has already gone in her diaper, which can be a little messy. If she can't get the diaper off because she can't get through her clothes, she runs through the house announcing "Di- Po! Di-Po," but by the time we rush her the bathroom, it's too late.

But Tuesday night, she got it exactly perfect. She climbed out of the bathtub, sat on the pot and deposited exactly what was expected.
Then, without a word, she walked over to the the toilet paper, delicately removed a small piece, and carefully wiped her face. In spite of that last bit of misinterpretation, her mother and brother applauded and cheered and even phoned Daddy at work so he could congratulate her, too.

Four-year-old Nico is growing up too. Cheryl and Paul took him to the Saratoga County Fair Sunday night and debated about whether to get him the $20 all-night ride pass or just buy $20 worth of tickets (The rides cost $3 to $4 each.) "I don't know how many of these he can actually ride," Paul said.
Cheryl figured if we got him the pass, we'd still have to buy tickets to ride the rides with him because he's so small and he'd be scared.

We figured he'd try a ride or two, lose interest and we'd go back to the barns and pet the bunnies and goats. It didn't seem wise to commit to $30 in carnival rides when he might only be able to handle a couple. It turns out it would have been cheaper, and more fun, to get the kid an all-inclusive pass. He could have ridden all night long. A year ago, he freaked out when the little preschool choo-choo train started to move, screaming for his Mommy. This year, he marched onto roller coasters and spinning dragons and train rides all by himself, and begged for more. He climbed to the top of the giant slide without an adult and went down without hesitation. Mom predicted that he would have trouble with a giant jungle gym that had a swinging rope bridge because he balks at moving platforms on the playground. Before he ever got to the bridge, he refused to climb a simple ladder. The attendant climbed inside and nudged him on his way, then he ran across that rope bridge without a care. As Mom and Dad watched from below with a napping Léo in the stroller, the attendant came over to explain. It wasn't the height of the ladder, she said. "He thought he saw a mosquito at the top and he didn't want it to suck his blood."

The Parker family
at Chez Sophie
518.583.3538

Chez Sophie was founded in 1969 by sculptor Joseph Parker and his French-born wife, the late Sophie. The business moved to a vintage stainless steel diner in Malta Ridge, New York, in 1995. It is owned today by Sophie and Joseph's son, Paul Parker, and his wife, Cheryl Clark. In June of 2006, they moved the restaurant into their current location in The Saratoga Hotel on Broadway..

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